A gem in the jewelry community dies ~ Christie Romero

Christie Romero was one of the greatest jewelry  historians of the 21st century.   Sadly she passed away Saturday September 5th.
 

I am actually full of grief because she represented someone who I've always aspired to in terms of achieving her quality of work and research.  I have kept Christie's book to the right of my computer for years as a reminder of what can be done and should be done in terms of researching jewelry with regard to my own research on Napier.  The writing of my own book has been greatly influenced by her. 

Christie Romero's lecture was the first lecture that I ever attended back in 1999 I believe.  Her passion and respect for the history of jewelry was beyond compare.   There are very few authors, collectors or jewelry historians that haven't been affect by her work.  We have all been beneficiaries.   Center For Jewelry Studies Christie Romero

I learned of Christie Romero's illness about two weeks ago and I was surprise to not have heard about it earlier.   There's a part of me that now regrets not sharing with her just a note to tell her how much she influenced my own respect and awe of jewelry. 

To Christie... Thank you for all your years of dedication directed towards the Center for Jewelry Studies, your book and your contribution to so many collectors.   You planted the seed of knowledge, that for me,  has fostered years of joy and research in the realm of jewelry history.    You have influenced so  many people  and inspired them to inquire beyond the beauty of a piece but to its origin, its nature, it affect on society.    Our community has forever been blessed by your presence, your dedication, your spirit.  There are few people that come into this world who's work transcends beyond their lifetime... You are one of those rare gems.

In lieu of flowers, her  husband requests that donations be made to Pancreatic Cancer Action Network http://pancan.org/
 

My condolences to her husband, family and jewelry community.   

Forever grateful,

Melinda Lewis
http://thejewelrystylist.com/

Fake Napier Charm Bracelets Don't Fall Victim

I've noticed a substantial increase in fake Napier charm bracelets recently and it just kills me that folks are paying good money for something that isn't what the seller states it is.

I'm sharing a picture and posting it so that everyone can familiarize yourself with two styles of the "barrier" style spring ring clasp that are currently being used to sell some of these bracelets. Notice that the spring rings are unplated and that soldering marks are visible in the lower right image and even around the protruding nub closest to the wire in the interior of the spring ring.


These are available for sale on the Internet in venues such as Ebay as well as other identifying tags and findings that were made by Napier. Charm bracelets that have the spring ring with the thumb pull are more often than not fake as Napier rarely used these findings.
Other characteristics of fakes include:

1. The loop formed by on the pin head is poorly configured. That's where the charm attaches to the jump ring. Authentic pieces will have perfectly formed circles due to the company's strict quality control.
2. The jump rings are marred with indentations from jewelry pliers or whatever tool that was used to attached the charm to the bracelet. The only indents on a jump ring should be those from wear or the manufacturers mark. Not cuts caused by tools. There were different types of jump rings that I'll teach about later to help date your jewelry.
3. The bead charms are "tipped" at the end with a crystal or other small bead. This was not a common design characteristic.
4. Tags with Trademarks styles from the 1990s on bracelets that look 1950s-ish are also a good clue.
5. Poor quality plastic beads or cast charms. Napier used more charms from die-stamped findings than charms that were cast.
6. The charm bracelet is marked and earrings aren't. Until we get into pieces from the 1990s or some pierced earrings the jewelry should be marked. There's only one 1960s set that I've seen to date where the earrings were not marked but the necklace was.
7. Bracelet configured with rhinestones using a spring ring clasp. Rhinestone bracelets used two types of v-spring box clasps... NOT spring ring clasps.

One exception to markings on spring ring clasps.

A couple of charm bracelet designs went out of the factory with West Germany spring rings. I don't have time to go into that detail and for this email we're taking about identifying fake charm bracelets marked Napier. These had a specific foiled art glass bead only!

Addendum:
We think that this "barrier" spring ring was used as early as the 1930s albeit RARELY.  Production of jewelry was really limited during the 1930s until 1938.   It was definitely used in the 1940s but mainly in sterling.  In came into its biggest use during the 1950s for non-precious metal pieces and was used into the 1970s along with the foldover clasp and the v-spring and catch clasp.

The "barrier" spring ring clasp WAS NOT exclusive to Napier.  The folks at Napier were very clear about that. 

Exercise caution when buying Napier charm bracelets... Educate yourself before purchasing. If the bracelet has any of the characteristics mentioned above asked if your seller guarantees authenticity, ask for close-ups and compare the design aesthetic against other known Napier bracelets.

Authentic Napier Charm Bracelets can be big bucks! Fake ones can be just as costly.

Authentic Napier Charm Bracelets can be big bucks! Fake ones can be just as costly.

When you compare regular charm bracelets prices against unmarked charm bracelets, chances are the price differentials are astronomical. Napier charm bracelets are one of the most problematic purchases for collectors. So many are sold by folks that don’t recognize the tell tale signs that the piece has been adulterated and sadly there are fake Napier charm bracelets being sold by those who change out findings in the hopes of getting a better price for their piece.

Clasp on the bracelet above was rarely used due to poor performance. Marked Napier on clasp not jump ring. This bracelet almost didn't pass the Napier test until verified by Napier Employee.

Clues to tell if it’s Napier.

First… Matching earrings will be marked. Napier used three to four clip back styles from the 1950’s through the 1970’s. Familiarize yourself with those findings.
Second… is the jump ring seam angled with a © mark? Those were not used until the 1970’s and very few charm bracelets were made from the 1970’s on. The earrings that were made to match the pieces that incorporate this type of jump ring will be MARKED adjustable clip backs, pierced clip backs or the standard clip back earrings. Not old funky clip back findings.



Typical clip back style for Napier.

Other signs that it’s not Napier are worn plastic faceted beads and cast charms. Almost all Napier charms were die-stamped and accented with glass beads or durable high quality plastics that have maintained their luster over the years. Napier is not noted for the manufacture of enameled charms which are frequently listed as unsigned Napier.

Figural Charms Popular in the "Gay Nineties"

Figural Charms
With the “Gay Nineties” fads were in full swing. The first extensive manufacture of figural charms came about after the popularization of the “Brownie,” a character invented by Palmer Cox. This character was immortalized and manufactured by a savvy New York jeweler. Soon figural charms of almost every kind were being manufactured as the latest novelty.
The World’s Fair Columbian Exposition of 1893 presented one of the strangest fads of the 1890’s. Tiny lizards were sold and worn as a form of adornment. The lizard was held in place by being chained in some fashion to the wearer. As soon as the craze spread to New York City it was immediately banned. The jewelry industry was quick to follow and soon lizards became a popular motif for brooches and pins.

Jewelry Truths

This blog is intended as an information resource site regarding popular myths, misinformation or untruths about collectible costume jewelry that are current on the Internet. This site is not to be used to flame or name specific persons, auctions or website being discussed or to post any pictures that violate copyright laws. Only websites that act as informational resource sites are allowed to be posted. Please do not editorialize. Just state facts

"Platinum Becomes Regulated" A look into our past

Platinum Becomes Regulated
The manufacturing of jewelry was not only influenced by fashion and culture but by changes in government regulations. Metals such as platinum or a combination of platinum with yellow gold had been the choice metal for much of the fine jewelry produced during this period. In France platinum was not recognized as a precious metal until 1910 and was not regulated in the United States until 1975. Changes in government classifications of metals used for jewelry manufacturing altered not only the public’s perception of value but the actual cost of material.

Note: Most jewelry made prior to 1975 in America which is marked Platinum varies in fineness.

Napier Sterling Will Be Marked Sterling

There's a lot of misinformation about Napier jewelry. Soon there will be a book published on The Napier Co. with approximately 3000 pictures.

A Word About Napier Sterling Jewelry.

Napier marked all of their sterling jewelry with the word sterling. Napier also heavily plated their silver tone jewelry with a silver plate. Because of this, Napier jewelry is claimed to be solid sterling jewelry on auction sites and websites alike although it is not marked as such. This is not true. It will test for sterling but it IS NOT solid sterling silver.

Napier antique silver finish was so exquisite that it often fools the savvy jewelry collector. Do let this be you!

Up until at least the 1980's Napier did not use 925 as a identifier for sterling silver. The word sterling will be visible on the piece.